In the summer of 2008, with a Presidential election looming, we initiated a "Ten-Week Project" contest, with the understanding that ten weeks is about the time between the election and the swearing in of the new President. This was NOT, and IS NOT to be seen as threatening, in any way. Not long before the election, many media pundits, such as James Carville, and politicians, such as Vice-President Elect Biden, and even The Toledo Police Department were concerned with riots, civil breakdowns, disorder, and other such mayhem. We heeded their warnings, and asked for people to submit ideas on how to best use that time. We were happy to receive a good handful of submissions. The winning one, below, was submitted by Black Jack, of The Michigan Patriot Alliance. It was chosen over about four others. We thank everyone for contributing, and we thank Black Jack for his excellent work. Now, read, learn, and apply!
Black Jack’s 10
Week Plan to Prepare for the Worst Case Scenario….

You
may think, “WORST case?? Why
plan? There’s nothing I can
do.” Well, for one thing,
that’s just not true!
Many folks just like you don’t
agree with that mind set. There’s
a lot you can do!
And, if this plan helps get you thinking of what you can
do instead of what you can’t
do, we all might just benefit from your
action! In fact, if enough
folks begin to think about what they can do, we just might avert the “worst
case”! So, while you’re reading
this, keep that thought in mind, ok?
This
plan is divided into two parts: The
items required and the timetable to do it in.
Remember, prudent people see
danger coming and prepare while the
foolish do nothing and suffer for it.
To put us all on an equal footing for the case presented, let’s get
ready to plan by using the following scenario as a back drop:
As
we all know, there are 10 Weeks between Presidential Election &
Inauguration. Let’s just say a
“progressive” candidate (both major party candidates fit this political
definition) is elected and the results are vetted without Supreme Court
challenge. Surprisingly, between election and inauguration, the
President-Elect begins making statements of regarding the “unrecoverable
status” of the American economy and the existence of “too much freedom”
and the responsibility and importance of adopting “world-approved” laws and
customs. Of course, there’s
the usual blather by several members of Congress, but the general consensus is,
“our hands are tied – the People have spoken”.
Then nothing in the press until Inauguration Day +3, when the new
President issues a Presidential Directive (PDD) put into force by an Executive
Order that orders the surrender of all semi-automatic weapons and ammunition to
prepare for the unilateral integration of the United States of America into the
North American Region of the United Nations, to be referred to in the future as
the “North American Union”. The
new President has his first press conference and declares a national “State of
Emergency” and invokes powers abdicated earlier by Congress with various acts
signed into law by previous presidents of both parties.
He disbands both houses of Congress and nullifying the checks and
balances of the judicial branch. All
media organizations are nationalized; all television, telephone, cell phone,
cable providers are nationalized. All
internet hubs are shut down with only those persons “cleared and licensed”
to have access authorized to use it. All
local, county, and State police forces are federalized and ordered to perform
house to house sweeps for weapons, anti-government leaning periodicals, books
and magazines, and to arrest anyone, no matter their age, who questions their
authority. Anyone refusing to
cooperate is to be given one warning, and then they are to be shot.
To augment the relatively small number of formerly civilian police, the
President has requested and been granted the aid of a UN “Peacekeeping
Force” comprised of units from the People’s Republic of China, Mexico, Iran,
Russia, France, and Zimbabwe. Troops
and equipment will begin to arrive within 24 hours of the news conference.
The nation is under “Martial Law” and has freedom is now in a life
and death struggle with tyranny. What
you choose to do personally will have a definite impact on your children’s,
your children’s children, and your children’s children’s children future
in these United States!
So,
how do you get ready for something like that?
Not possible you say? Think
for a moment: The Law of Unintended
Consequences usually provides extreme results beyond those anticipated or
planned in any situation it becomes involved with.
So, that being said, let’s examine this, even if only from an academic
perspective.
First,
is the scenario plausible? Many
seem to think so, but what’s relevant is what you
think. So, before you go any
further, you need to make a determination:
Is this a bunch of paranoid “tin foil hat” crap or maybe, just maybe,
is there something to this and you, gentle reader, need to do something positive
to take care of your family and friends. If
you had the time (which you don’t, believe me), you could do your own
investigation from objective sources, file Freedom of Information Act Requests (FOIA)
and find that it is, in fact, not only plausible, but the stage is being set for
just such an eventuality.
If
you decide the scenario isn’t plausible, just toss this out.
Delete. File 13.
Trash. Round file.
I hope you enjoy your life and are prosperous. However, if you decide the scenario is plausible, you
have much to think about, much to do, and much to gain in the way of putting
yourself, your family and your friends in a better position.
Think
about it. I’ll wait.
You’re still here?
Ok,
let’s get started.
Before
anything else you have to understand
that you have very limited
time in the way of making purchases, so you need to read this,
comprehend it, and take decisive
action! No putting this off
until after the “holidays” (you and your family’s Christmas presents
should be what you need to survive what’s coming!).
Everything mentioned herein
will get more expensive by the day, then, as time grows shorter, by
the hour. The old
rule of, “you snooze, you lose” will take on major
significance to you personally in this case, because what you lose might just be
your life, or at the minimum, what’s left of your tattered freedom!
So,
what’s the first thing you buy? You
can argue all you want, but the simple answer is to take stock of what you have on
hand right now, because that will be your determining factor.
If you have a rifle (even a .22) but you don’t have something that will
either provide or help you get things you must
have to live, you don’t necessarily need a weapon first.
Like what? How about a water
purifier of some sort? How about
non-perishable food items?
How
about hygiene items? The list can
go on, but the point is not to presume that a bigger, better weapon is the first
thing. It may very well be the
first thing you want, but you must make yourself think in terms of needs
based upon what is instead of what may be or is not.
For the point of discussion, though, we’ll assume you don’t have a
rifle and start there.
Rifle: All things being equal, and you have reasonable vision and
average muscle control and dexterity, if
you can only have one weapon, make it a rifle.
A rifle has more power, more ability to stop and put down any target at
ranges in excess of a pistol/revolver or shotgun’s maximum effective range.
A quick example of “knock down” power:
A 300 Winchester Magnum with a 200 grain bullet that hits its target at
1,000 yards (to illustrate how far this is, you would have to take 36 inch steps
every second for 16 and a half minutes to walk 1,000 yards) with more energy
than a .44 Magnum does as “point blank” range.
Get the picture? Something
or someone hit with a rifle goes down and usually does not get back up.
Period. So, what rifle?
Simplicity is the key
here, especially as you may have only shot a rifle a few times in your life or
others who will use the rifle fall into that category. So, you need a rifle that’s easy to learn to operate,
doesn’t require a lot of maintenance, is fairly accurate, and won’t take all
the money you have available to purchase. Here’s
an example that fits those requirements:

This
is the German K98 Mauser, chambered in 8mm.
The
K98 or M48 Mauser (later model) is rugged, can take down anything in North
America, ammunition is cheap, and it’s maintenance requirements are extremely
simple! Cost: Around $300 for “Service Grade” for the rifle and about
$250 for a 900 round case of Yugoslavian ammunition.
So, for about $550 or so, you have the weapon category taken care of.
The really nice thing about older rifles like this is that if all else
fails, they are superb clubs and will put down whomever they are hit with.
If you have a bit more disposable income, or you are a hunter and don’t
need extensive training or are ex-military and want a more prolific weapon that
you may have had some familiarization with (although not at powerful –
military veterans still complain of hitting an enemy 3 to 4 times before they go
down just to get back up again), you may want to consider the ubiquitous AR-15
carbine family or its descendants.

Bushmaster
M4 Clone - .223 Caliber w/ 16 inch barrel
These
will cost you anywhere from $750 to $1200, depending on the source, and
ammunition will run from $250 to $350 per 1000 rounds.
Then
you have to add in at least five 30 round magazines, so that will be another $50
at the bare minimum, again, depending on your source.
So, at the low end, you’re talking about $1,050; at the high end,
$1,600 or so. It’s your call.
Remember this: The more
complex the weapon, the more intricate its cleaning and maintenance requirements
are and the more training required to effectively operate it.
A quick
disclaimer: All costs have been
taken from July 2008 advertisements, well before the upcoming National election
and likely price increases if the more liberal of the candidates are elected,
Supreme Court decisions not withstanding.
To
be sure, there are many other fine
weapons you could go with, but the two examples cited above give you an
idea of the spectrum you can operate in when you are getting your “kit”
together. The 1,000 round examples
with each rifle are considered to be a
minimum of what one would need to stay viable in a scenario such as
described above for an extended period. Something
else you need to know: You
are your own supply chain. You
cannot count on having someone to provide extra, so everything you have needs to
be able to fill more than one function.
Ammunition: Just like with the weapon category, there are many, many
types of ammunition you could elect to purchase.
The examples above were military surplus “full metal jacket” or FMJ
examples. FMJ is a good, all around
general purpose bullet. It
doesn’t expand like hunting rounds, but it rarely fails to chamber and can
reliably kill any animal or adversary you need it to take down.
If you’re not an experienced shooter, don’t waste your time and money
trying to get several types of ammunition for different purposes; get the FMJ
and use the money you have left to get other items you’ll need.
As previously mentioned, the standard “rule of thumb” is that for
each rifle you depend on, 1,000 rounds should be held in
reserve to ensure you have a reasonable supply if ever needed.
Remember, without ammunition, a rifle is basically an interesting paper
weight.
Food: All food consider for this sort of emergency planning must
be non-perishable and easily transportable. Not necessarily
very light (though that helps), but transportable, meaning compactable, easily
packed, able to be put in other containers, water/moisture proof, etc. Power
bars, granola, tuna kits (especially the foil packet), peanut butter, honey,
dried soups, etc. Light is
good. Heavy is not so good. You
might be in a position that you have to transport on foot the things you need in
order to stay out of the net cast by the nefarious elements in the scenario at
the beginning of this paper. For
example, if you have the choice between canned soups that are ‘ready to eat’
and ‘condensed’ soups you add water for preparation, the condensed soups
should get the nod, because you get relatively the same volume of soup for about
a third of the weight. Taking that
a step further, if you have dried soup mixes that are vacuum sealed and water
tight, you should choose those because they’re about 5 to 10% of the weight of
the condensed variety, and you can pack quite a bit more. Get the picture?
You
could also choose the ubiquitous “MRE” of military fame or the freeze dried
foods mountain climbers use. You
could choose to take your entire stock of canned foods in your vehicle (just
make sure you use these first incase you have to abandon your vehicle and you
don’t have a pack horse handy!). What
is essential is that you have
a minimum of 1300 calories a day per person in your party for a minimum of 14
days. If you were
using full MRE packs, which would mean each person would have to be able to
carry 14 MRE’s. That’s quite a
bit. Don’t despair, however.
Creativity counts here. Through
experimentation, I’ve found that 4 MRE tubes of peanut butter and one MRE pack
of “trail mix” (peanuts, raisins, and ‘chocolate discs’ (military jargon
for M&M’s) equals 1350 calories. Add
in a 400 calorie “energy bar” and you have just under 2000 calories for one
day. This little recipe also has
almost the perfect mix of fat, protein, and carbohydrates required for optimum
nutrition. The bottom line here is
that you know what you and yours can and can’t eat (due to allergies). So you have to make the decision. The bottom line is that you need food for a couple of weeks
(this is just travel food) and for at least 6 months (absolute bare minimum) in
your pantry at home against the possibilities of interruption of the supply
chain. Remember, our scenario here
is national martial law reinforced by UN ‘peacekeepers’. The supply chain is mostly driven by over-the-road trucks,
and a shut down of the interstate system would be just about required for this
scenario to work.
When
it comes to food in your pantry, or ‘larder’ as I call it, make sure you
have things like cooking oil, flour, dried beans, yeast, and sea salt in
addition to the various canned and comfort goods.
One way to increase the size of your larder so it’s not noticed by
anyone, including store employees wondering why you have 5 shopping carts full
of canned goods, would be to added 4 to 6 cans of whatever each shopping trip.
And, as you go through your items at home, cycle through them, using the
oldest first and replacing those with ‘new’ items with much later expiration
dates.
Lastly,
water has to be added to the food category, as many meals, especially those with
dried ingredients, require the addition of water for pre-cooking preparation or
rehydration (in the case of some beans, soup mixes, or other dehydrated
offerings).
In
“normal” circumstances, people use several gallons a day for hydration,
hygiene, and cooking purposes. In
a scenario such as the one we are planning for, this is one of those things that
must change immediately!
Chances are that water could/would be cut-off as a measure of control or
as a result of utility workers not being allowed or able to reach their
workplaces. The bottom line is that
to depend upon a municipal water
system in our scenario is just asking for trouble!
To mitigate that possibility, two water sources must be developed.
The first, for in the home, is stored water.
Storing water isn’t difficult or very expensive at all.
All you need to do is go to your local discount house and get two 6
gallon water containers for camping (you know, the one’s with the spigots?)
per person. They’re about $7
each. The cost for the ubiquitous
American family of four would be under $30.
Once at home, take ¼ cup of unscented chlorine bleach and ¾ cup of
water, mix it, and rinse out each container.
Let it sit for 10 minutes or so, then rinse again with clean water and
let it dry. Now fill it to
the brim and add 8 drops of the same unscented bleach per gallon (48 drops from
an eyedropper for a 6 gallon container) and fill it up with water to the brim!
Try not to leave any air bubbles. Put
the lid on it snugly, and keep it in the basement out of the way.
Just as it is, this water can be used for a year or more with no ill
effects for anyone who drinks it. If
in doubt, you can always add 8 more drops of bleach per gallon after the year,
year and a half or so has gone by and let it sit for at least 30 minutes before
you consume it. As long as no algae
or moss grows around it, you’re golden. A
smart move is to rotate the water out once a year (if things don’t go South
before then!). Take the old water
and use it for whatever you want. I
personally water my wife’s flowers and the vegetable garden.
In
reserve, if things get really bad, you always have your hot water heater to
drain as well as your pipes. Once
you lose water pressure, get some containers down to the lowest spigot you have
in your home (usually your basement). Then,
turn on the cold water and fill up your containers until the water runs out.
Don’t turn on the hot water! Not
yet, anyway. Wait until you know
for sure the supply of cold water is not coming back anytime soon.
In the mean time, get a section of hose with the female end; 8 feet is
more than enough. Attach it to the
bottom of your hot water heater. You
now have a way to drain your hot water heater into a container as you need it.
Most homes have 30 to 50 gallon water heaters, which are a superb reserve
that will extend your range of comfort, nutrition (cooking water), hydration,
and hygiene for quite awhile, relatively speaking.
Apartment and condo dwellers, unless they have individual water heaters,
only have the option of getting to the lowest spigot in the facility and getting
extra water that way.
What
about if you move out? You need
something to ensure any water you forage is safe to drink.
First, forget the hype about camping “water filters”.
Filters are ok, but they are not guaranteed to purify your water at all.
So you need something a bit better.
This option is the best option currently available today, but it is
relatively expensive – almost as expensive as your rifle.
But look at it this way: This
system guarantees at least 1000 gallons of purified water from any source.
The risk of cooking, drinking, and washing with contaminated water is
virtually nullified!

The
“Life Saver Bottle”
This
water purification system with a spare filter, will provide up to 2105 gallons
of safe drinking water from any
source! That’s right – any
source. It was developed for
the military and is not yet widely sold or known.
The
basic model costs $249 and one replacement filter costs $149, so we’re talking
$400. If you have an extra hundred
bucks, get the 6000 model for $299 with a replacement filter for $199.
It will give you over 3,150 gallons of water for $500 – about 16 cents
a gallon in today’s dollar value. Not
too shabby! Here’s the link: http://www.htistore.com/lifesaverbottle4000yellow.aspx
.
One
of the superb benefits of this system is that you don’t need to carry water on
your person if you move away from your home.
Sure, you might want a quart or two on you for convenience, but all you
need to have is this system and when you find water, fill it up and start
drinking. If weight became an
issue, and you had one of these, you’d not have a problem any longer.
On
the low end, and for emergencies, you can get something for about $25 called,
“The Survival Straw”. I’ve
used it in relatively clear pond and stream/lake water with no ill effects
whatsoever. It’s good for about
5,000 gallons, but does not guarantee what the Life Saver Bottle does.
Buy one for each member of your family if you can as a back up, or, if
you can’t afford anything else, it’s better than most of the filters on the
market.
Caution: Don’t fall
prey to the idea that “doing it on the cheap” will be just as good as
spending everything you can afford to spend.
Cheap is as cheap does! You
get what you pay for! You skimp,
you lose! This would be the time, if you didn’t have the cash, to use your
credit card or savings. This is THE rainy day you’ve been saving for! Get the very best you
can afford! Get the picture?
Medications: Everyone needs to know that they should always have on hand at least a three month supply of required
medications for any emergency!
To do otherwise is risking certain death, especially in the scenario
we’re operating under. Whatever it takes to get your med supply up to par, do.
If you have refills, get them as quickly as possible and keep the spares
in a “go kit” that you cycle through, just like your larder.
Aside from those meds, put a large bottle of aspirin or Tylenol (one or
the other), a large bottle of multi-vitamins, a super-sized box/package of mild
laxative, a super-sized package of Amodium AD, 3 large tubes of Neosporin Plus
(this has pain reliever), a small bottle of Oil of Cloves (dental pain
reliever), 100 yards (do the math) of unwaxed dental floss, 1 pound of sea salt
& 1 pound of baking soda (best tooth paste when mixed 1 to 1 and can be used
to augment food supplies), a large box of assorted band aids, and 2 large
bottles of hydrogen peroxide. Why
peroxide? It is a superb
disinfectant and can be used to treat most foot related problems (athlete’s
foot, etc), periodontal disease (rinsing daily for five minutes – don’t
swallow, though!), disinfecting small & large cuts or abrasions, etc.
You can also include some larger gauze pads, and for serious
wounds, have about six super absorbency kotex type pads (the old fashioned kind)
and six super-absorbency tampons. The pads are for lacerations; the tampons are for punctures.
The idea being that if you need to staunch a large flow of blood, these
will help. They’re cheap, too.
Now, you also need to spend a bit more money and get some ‘quick
clot’ sponges (about ¼ ounce size will do nicely).
You can get packages of 5 for about $40.
Save these for those really bad cuts/punctures.
Remember, we’re talking life and death here. Lastly, as it will save you some emergency, if you’re still
of child bearing age and you will have intimate relations with someone who could
get pregnant or make you pregnant, a good supply of condoms or a cervical cup.
You don’t want a pregnant woman trying to deliver a baby in a bad
situation!
Transportation: If you stay in place any longer than 24 hours once a national
“state of emergency” has been declared, you’re most likely going to be
stuck there unless you have an alternate mode of transportation other than your
car, truck, SUV or mini-van. But
let’s say you decide if this scenario happens, you’re jumping in whatever
you have and hitting the open road. Great!
First, though, don’t count on too many gas stations being open, or if
they are, expect very, very high prices. A
good “rule of thumb” is to quadruple the prices you see today and expect to
pay that amount, in cash, per gallon! With
prices hovering within range of $4 a gallon today, figure $16 a gallon and for a
20 gallon tank, you need to have $320 on you to fill your tank once!
If the gas station takes plastic, all the better!
The bottom line is that you need to expect that gas will be very
expensive and not on every street corner. You
can mitigate your fuel needs by doing a couple things:
First, never, and I mean
never,
allow your tank to get below half full!
This gives you a 200 mile buffer (most vehicles get 400 miles on an
average tank of gas) so that if you couldn’t refuel at all, you can at least
get to a more survivable area. Keeping
your tank half full also decreases the amount of cash you need just for fuel by
50% from $320 to $160. The rest of
your cash can be used for barter or purchasing necessities you find along the
way (like more ammo or food). Second,
consider the purchase of at least three 5 gallon gas cans (make sure the nozzle
fits an unleaded gas coupling in modern vehicles), fill them up, and treat them
with ‘Sta-bil’ gas stabilizer. This
will make sure the gas stays “fresh” for quite some time.
Then, if nothing bad happens, cycle the gas through your lawn mower or
other small engine that always seem to be out!
Some
folks have opted for the All-American ATV or “Four Wheeler” that can take
one to two passengers and all your gear. A
major advantage to these little transports is that they do not need roads.
They can also ford many of Michigan’s streams and rivers of 3 feet or
less in depth). The problem with these machines, while fun as well as useful
in certain applications, is that they are terrible on gas mileage, and you can
hear them coming for a long, long way unless the owners have spent the money
necessary on buying certain after-market mufflers that reduce their signature to
almost that of a car. Additionally,
you have to have cash for refueling and plan to carry one five gallon fuel can
on the machine as well to give you twice the range.
Lastly,
map out a route that doesn’t take major roads out of your area.
Secondary and surface streets are the way to go.
After you map it, drive it. Find
out what areas are good, what are bad, and make route adjustments so you’ll
have the most trouble free route out of your location to your “hidey hole”.
So,
what happens if you can’t get out in your vehicle or you run out of gas?
That ever present old stand-by, ‘shanks mare’, comes into play.
You’ll have to walk and pack your goods.
This eventuality means that you’ll need to be fit enough to walk for
some miles with about 40 pounds on your back!
Impossible you say?? Nope.
Not at all. Start your
fitness upgrade today. After you
read this, go out and walk around the block.
Do one sit up. Do one push up. There.
Not so hard. Tomorrow do the same thing and the day after, walk a little
further and do two sit ups and two push ups.
Repeat until you’re doing a couple sets of sit ups and push ups with 25
repetitions and walking 3 miles fast!
This goal can easily be accomplished in 10 weeks!
Most likely, if you’re “average”, you can do it in 5 weeks, and
then have the bonus of getting in even better shape by Inauguration day!
Walking in the cold, by the way, is good for you!
If
you have to go on foot, you need to make sure you have very good boots or shoes
(do not
skimp on your footwear!), maps, and a compass (and know how to use it).
There are “how to” sites all over the internet on this subject – a
five minute search will bring up a nice variety.
I do not recommend a GPS because it can be used to fix your
position by an aggressor and the satellites all GPS units use will, in our
little scenario, have an error margin of up to 100 yards programmed into them.
You’ll also need batteries (lots of them and the weight adds up and the
supply is finite!). You see, an aggressive government like the fictional one in
our scenario will not want you to have the same accuracy in navigating as it
does. The best compass in my experience is the USGI compass, now
made by Cammenga. It’s about $80
on average, but it’s
worth every penny!

USGI
Compass Basic Nomenclature
If
you can only afford one, fine. Just
take care of it. If you have a
chance to get two, do it! There’s
an only rule you need to try to follow: “Two
is one and one is none”. Sure,
redundancy is repetitive (pun intended), but it’s better to have a spare and
not need it than need a spare really bad and not have it.
Something
else you can do is to use the map below as a guide. It’s not a road map. It’s
the Rand McNally rail road map of Michigan.
All those tracks are still out there.
Some have been made into “rails to trails” venues, but the track beds
are still there and can be used for our purposes. You can parallel these routes while staying off main roads
and out of sight and still get to where you’re going. Your object in the next ten weeks is to choose a primary and
an alternate route and go for a ride or two to get a mental picture of the area
you might have to traverse on foot. While
you’re at it, choose some spots you could ‘hole up’ for a night or two
that wouldn’t be readily noticed or attractive to others.
Make sure they’re concealed and far enough away
from the major commercial route (tracks or highways) so that your noise
can’t be heard your movement won’t be picked up by casual observance.
Mark them down on your map with just a ‘tick’ mark or two. These spots could be your temporary shelter in storms or when
you needed to stay still and rest.

Shelter
& Field Gear: You’re going to need some things here. A tent or two (the USMC Combat tent) is about the best for
the money and will hold up to 3 people (very cramped) and their gear.
They cost anywhere from $100 to $200, depending on the source, but when
it’s cold or raining and you need to warm up, they are well worth the money.
Additionally, they have a fly that does not let any light out, so at
night, you could use a small flashlight to take care of anything you needed.
(Sure, you can get a USGI surplus “pup tent” for about $20, but
it’s a lot
heavier, needs insulation, and will make you wish you spent the extra money when
you had the chance.)

USMC
Combat Tent
It
has two openings, a small vestibule for gear storage, and will take winds up to
55 mph. Not too shabby for a small
tent. It’s rated as a “3
season” tent, but I’ve used mine in the dead of winter in temperatures of 25
below, and it’s worked just fine! The
fly also has a tan side as well as the OD side.
Something for you to think about: Sometimes,
in winter, the tan side helps hide your tent better than the OD green side.
The tan blends with all the browns of winter.
Whatever shelter you get, remember its purpose:
Keep the wind and rain from causing you to get hypothermia. Tents don’t keep you warm, insulation does.
And, in that light, the best insulation you can get is to make sure you
get a “30 below” sleeping bag for each person that will keep you warm in the
winter and in summer, you can lay on top of it.
You can spend as much as you want on a sleeping bag or sleeping bag
system. Just remember “Caveat
Emptor” – Buyer Beware! You get what you pay for!
A good, well-priced bag is from Cabela’s. It’s their “3D” bag and
costs as little as $90. You may
also want to get a USGI poncho liner and poncho for hot summer days or cool fall
evenings. This will cost about $45
for a set.
Well,
let’s pause and see how much we’ve committed financially here:
At
the most, getting all high-end gear, you’ve committed about $3,300 and at the
least, about $1,400 on the low end for a weapon, ammo, water purification and
storage, fuel costs, food, shelter, and a very small amount of field gear.
Between
$140 and $330 a week for 10 weeks to spend on making sure you survive and
thrive. People spend more than that
on junk food, cable and beer these days. Learning
to take care of yourself and your loved ones is not expensive or difficult –
all it takes is discipline. Only
you can provide that.
Speaking
of “surviving and thriving”, there’s one written source you need to have
to read for the 10 week period. It’s
called, “Six Ways in and Twelve Ways Out” It’s a compilation of US Ranger
knowledge on how to make it in all sorts of scenarios.
You can get it for $13.50 from www.ravenswoodenterprises.com
post paid. Best book you can get on
the subject!

Buy
it. Read it. Apply it. You’ll be glad you did. Other field gear you’re going to need is a good knife.
A plain old USMC KaBar with a 7 inch blade is about the best you can get
for the money. Sure, you can get a
good Cold Steel knife or something else that you spend lots of money on, but the
problem is if they’re more expensive than the KaBar and don’t have that many
advantages over the KaBar for the price, why spend the money, especially with
only 10 weeks to prepare? Remember to stick to the basics! KaBar knives can be had all over the internet from between $40
to $50. It will not let you down.
Remember this about a large bladed knife:
It can do everything a smaller knife can do reasonably well, but a
smaller knife can’t do a lot of the things a larger blade can do.
Like when you need to hack branches when building shelters, or need to
butcher a deer, prepare a meal, etc. The
other edged weapon/tool you’re going to want and need is a tomahawk.
It’s a great tool to make your life more bearable and a formidable
weapon, both physically and psychologically.
You’ll want your hawk to have a hardened hammer and blade which is
superb for making cooking tools, stakes, etc.
The one I recommend is the Cold Steel “Trail Hawk” which you can get
for less that $30 if you look. It’s
light, strong, and takes an edge very well.

Cold
Steel Trail Hawk
Other
very important field gear and equipment are:
Toilet paper (2 rolls per
person minimum), a “spork” (spoon/fork hybrid) made out of aluminum
(against breakage), a “utility pot” (can be a canteen cup), 4 tooth brushes
per person with the handle cut in half (weight/space reduction), parachute cord
(at least 200 feet), a fire starting device (BIC type lighter as well as
sparking device and the knowledge on how to use it) .
You
will also want to consider a FRS/GMRS type walkie-talkie, spare batteries, flash
lights (small LED are best), spare batteries and some spare batteries.
Get the point? You’re
going to need some batteries.
For
carrying this gear on your person, you’ll probably want a Load Bearing Vest or
harness. You can pick these up
cheap at GI Surplus in Wayne, Michigan, or on the internet. If you buy it at GI Surplus, the kind folks there will help
you set it up and fit it to you. Just
ask them.

USGI
Surplus Load Bearing Vest
As
for clothing, make sure it’s not bright and at least doesn’t clash with your
surroundings. If you’re going to
be moving through or staying in urban areas, you don’t want the latest
camouflage pattern; if you’re moving through or staying in a rural area, you
definitely want some surplus GI camouflage uniforms (with all insignia removed).
You can find these very cheaply at garage sales, on the internet, and so
forth.
Make sure you
have weather appropriate clothing
as well: Cold weather boots, socks,
underwear, etc. Frostbite can kill you.
These
are most of the items you’d most likely need to survive a scenario from an
equipment perspective. But what
about the “people” angle? Contrary
to what some think, no man is an island and you can’t do it all by yourself.
You need
support – a team member, someone to watch your back. Oh sure, some folks have large families and can delegate
those tasks, but many, many others, just have themselves or a spouse/significant
other. And, usually, that
spouse/significant other is not trained nor has the discipline to handle the
more arduous, but very mundane tasks required.
So,
what do you do then? You get
yourself a “buddy”. You can do
that in the 10 week time period handily. Start
checking out your friends. See
which ones seem to be alarmed with what’s going on as you are.
Then, find a time to speak with them alone and “test the waters”.
If they agree and want to do something, give them a copy of this and get
to work.
While
getting your equipment and supplies together, draft and develop your plan.
Will you:
u
Stay put?
Doing so in a large urban area most likely means you will be searched,
possibly relocated, and should you resist, be in danger from the occupying
force.
u
Run for the “hills”?
Ok, that’s plausible, but you need to really pay attention to where you
might go, because here in Michigan, a couple million other people may be doing
the same thing! By necessity, your
rule will be “no contact whatever” with others that you see along your way
because you will have no way of knowing who, if anyone, is with them or has them
under observation.
u
Pack up and move to
Grandma’s? Also feasible,
provided Grandma has a place that will support the group you’re moving.
Think of hygiene requirements, sustenance, and life support (can you or
your little group do something to earn silver?)
u
Give yourself up?
Many will be tempted and eventually succumb, but those who do will be
even more miserable than those who stay the course.
Remember Thomas Paine, “…these are the times that try men’s
souls….but he that stands it deserves the love of both men and women….”
Once
you have your buddy and you begin to build trust between you and learn each
other’s (both individually and group) likes, dislikes, habits and so forth,
you can still find another “buddy team” to partner with. That gives you a group from 8 to 24 or so, depending on
family size. The logistical
requirements are more complex, but if each handles his own family/team, it’s
not so overwhelming.
The
next issue is leadership. It just
won’t work as a committee. All
your members will have input, sure, but someone has to make the hard decisions.
This may be the most complex issue you need to solve:
who will you or your little band trust to make those hard decisions, and
will the group follow that person? It’s
not about
popularity, either. It’s about
ability and reason. The best case
scenario for you would be to have someone in your group who’s an experienced
leader either in business or prior military (not just being in, but being in and
being a leader!) That provides you
a foundation of discipline for your chosen leader.
The leader has to be secure enough to listen to others, humble enough to
know others may have a better answer, selfless enough to put the group before
his own desires, and tough enough to make the decisions that won’t be popular
sometimes. Admittedly, a tall
order, but it has to be done. Your
leadership discussions may cause one or two to fall out of the group.
That’s going to happen. If
it does, let them leave with their self-respect.
Don’t hurt their
pride or “throw them out”. That’d
be the worst thing you could do!
Remember, we’re talking about a whole new paradigm here:
Martial Law. If someone
leaves and goes away with their pride intact and holds no hard feelings, they
won’t be so likely to turn you in to the “new” authorities.
They just might, however, if they have a chip on their shoulder or want to “pay
you back” for some slight, real or imagined.
Be conscious of this group dynamic!
Networking
follows: If the net is still up,
find others close by or in the area you are moving to (if you can) that feel as
you do, at least on the face of it. Start
a dialog and listen carefully! They
should exhibit about the same anxiousness you have in networking.
If they’re too open and promise the moon for nothing in return or if
they’re so closed they accuse you of being in the “enemy” camp, you
don’t want anything to do with them. Look
elsewhere. Common sense and values are key here.
Finally,
develop your “line in the sand”. This
is that one thing that will cause you to execute your plan.
An example would be the actual deployment of foreign or UN troops anywhere
in the United States. That action
is an obvious declaration that the compact of the Unanimous Declaration and the
Constitution of the United States has been discarded.
So,
as I said earlier, this is a “quick and dirty” discussion on how to plan and
what to do in the 10 weeks between the election and inauguration of the new
President. How it comes out,
we’ll all know soon enough, I guess.
Timeline
wise, here’s an outline that may help:
Week
1: Inventory, evaluate and prioritize equipment needs; evaluate
available funds; begin fitness program.
Week
2: Incorporate weapon familiarity training into schedule; gather
fiscal resources and begin purchases.
Week
3: Look for “buddy”; evaluate friends on like-minded
concerns; begin to educate your family/spouse/significant other.
Week
4: Help “buddy” start preparations; continue equipment
gathering.
Week
5: Determine “GOOD” location (if any), map route, and do
initial route familiarization trip. Modify
route as actual conditions warrant.
Week
6: Determine “line in the sand”; if you can, zero your
rifle. If not, practice with dry
fire.
Week
7: Look for like-minded people in GOOD location and at home.
Network.
Week
8: Pack newly gathered equipment into GOOD kits and locate near
transport.
Week
9: Continue preparations; family/network education &
planning.
Week
10: Dress rehearsal; clean weapons, check equipment, food, etc.
Hope the new President complies with his Oath of Office.
Lastly,
remember, you’re adapting a new way of life here. Not some sort of paranoiac, delusional “everyone’s out to
get me” mindset, but one of careful evaluation of what is and what can occur,
and a
solemn determination to keep freedom alive.
Because this is just the beginning-once all the people in the country
doing this get their “sea legs”, the long journey undertaken to reclaim our
freedoms and reign in a government removed from the Constitution has just begun.